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5th June 2016 Hiking - Walking: Giro dei Laghi (tour of the lakes) Wind Direction: Wind Stength: Surf / Sea State: Air Temperature: Sea Temperature: Weather: As usual sunny start with rain later Max Speed: Distance Covered: 8 miles + (Nautical Miles - unless stated otherwise) Sunday 5th June – Mega Hike ***** Giro dei Laghi (tour of the lakes) As usual sunny start with rain later:( 6600ft. Start 8009ft. high point. Out 8hrs covering over 8 miles!!! We could have died today :( Peaceful night in our great spot with ‘The Lady of the Snow’ just below Santuario di Saint Anna. I blinded Mag when I drew the curtains at 7 with bright sunshine and blue skies! Knowing that it clouded over by midday with afternoon rain this was too good an opportunity to miss, so we got up straight away, made a flask and packed our breakfast, Italian bread left over from yesterday with butter and jam. We were going to walk up to the Colle di Saint Anna (2308m) which boasts a funky metal cross which looks like an electric pylon and then see where the path lead us? We started up the road towards the church past freshly painted names of famous cyclists including Nibali from last week’s race turning left to the top car park where we nearly parked last night but a bit exposed and muddy. Saint Anna stands proudly on a large rock accessed by a huge staircase and a cross stands on every peak around, a little like religious littering:( The path was wide and well made at this point winding up to the Colle, we soon spotted some wildlife in the form of Shrikes and a Chamois standing on a large rock staring Mag out. We then came to the first of the day’s many Lacs a small one but very beautiful with lovely sunny reflections, tripod out for a group shot. The path rose gradually to 2308m and we encountered our first snow covering half the path! Soon we were sitting on our small picnic blanket with Mag pouring coffee, eating bread and jam with stunning views down into Italy in front of us and the French gorge up to Isola behind us – the border runs along this line of mountains. I scrambled along the jagged ridge with sheer drops into France to get a track on the GPS before heading down a little way to a sign pointing to a leisurely Sunday stroll ‘Giro dei Laghi’ or Circuit of the Lakes and what a life threatening adventure that turned out to be!!!! We were lulled into a false sense of security as the first section was a steady climb up past a dozing Italian hiker (the only person we saw on this track) then turning sharply left through narrow rock columns. The rock strewn gully looked like something from another world but more worryingly the path disappeared in several places under snow, but being the fearless mountain hikers we are, we continued on regardless! Luckily for us a couple of hikers had done the walk recently so we were able to follow their footprints. We soon saw four young male Ibex by a fort, fun jousting and the air was filled with a Marmot’s warning call. We had to cross a narrow wooden bridge holding onto a chain with a huge drop below at this point. Reaching the Col du Lausfer (2403m) without sliding to our death we were greeted to some of the best views of the day with a part frozen lac beneath us and low cloud following us from behind! Now back in France but still on the trail of the Lake Circuit, we stopped for a quick snack and drink before continuing, in hind sight we should have returned the way we came as we really did put ourselves into a life threatening position:( Again the first section in France was straight forward enough, to another derelict army barracks, the area is covered with reminders of World War II from gun emplacements to barbed wire fences! , We saw what might have been deer in the distance. Then it was down past yet another Lac jumping over the mountain stream overflow. Round the corner came a dodgy section of muddy scree to the turning point back into Italy - the Col du Saboule (2466). We thought that from here it was just an amble back to the van – we have never been more wrong! The weather by now had turned with low cloud and rain moving over in waves. On crossing back into Italy we did not recognise anything and soon realised we still had another valley to traverse! We tried a path up but that was a wild goose chase taking us even further away into the middle of nowhere, I was beginning to think we had made a serious error with the weather closing in and my rescue gps in the van! We stopped at another barracks popular with the local wild life to put my coat and hat on and camera in the rucksack before braving the path back, well I say path the red and white markers disappeared after only a few metres and the north facing slopes were covered in snow making seeing the path impossible:( Our only saving grace was the tracks left by those previous hikers and we followed them slowly across the steep slopes, me leading trying to make solid foot prints for Mag to follow. One slip there and you would slide down the slope to the rocks below, not one of our better ideas! We kept finding very short sections of path so we knew we were on the right track with the Laghi Saint Anna supposedly only 50 minutes away (obviously without the snow!!). Mag counted the longest section of snow at a 1000 short paces, it was stressful and tiring and my right knee kept playing me up! After what seemed ages the snow disappeared and we thought we had found the safety of the rocky path, narrow with a big drop to the left but no snow. Although soaked we breathed a sigh of relief and happily followed the path until it turned right and the path was completely blocked by a small section on snow with a sheer drop off the side onto the rocks below! it was only about 6/7m to safety but we had to make a decision - retrace our steps in bad weather all the way we had just come (about 4 hours) or take a chance and very very stupidly we decided to carry on! Again I lead the way with Mag very close behind, if we were going to go we would go together! and Mag thought that if she wasn’t close behind me and had to start out on her own when I was safely on the other side she would have found it more scary! Facing the mountain, I kicked footholds straight into the snow and holding onto handfuls of snow we inched our way across – I can honestly say this is the most stupid thing we have ever done as, honestly, at any moment we could have plummeted to our deaths but it was with much relief we made it. Our only war wounds werer it were freezing cold hands and a racing heart – as the song goes do something that scares you every day and we certainly did today! The last section was a breeze, an hour back to the van soaked through and chilly now past a small herd of beautiful curly horned Mouflons – the first time we had ever seen them. On past Saint Anna’s Laghi (lac) where we walked to yesterday - two men were fishing – I know we saw tadpoles 0yesterday but fish!! On past Saint Anna’s statue up on her rock and then to the road back to the beloved van after 8 hours – tomorrow’s definitely a rest day! We are thinking a drive and a supermarket will be thrilling enough!!! At the van at 4 o’clock it was out of the wet things, diesel heater on warm up and then delicious Lidl lasagne for tea – what a five-star day I think – just lucky to survive – we do love the mountains :) As an added bonus it was a beautiful evening :) Having returned safely we can now say we think it should be somebody’s responsibility to put notices up that several of the higher paths are impassable because of snow – even though it is June! From the first Col in brilliant sunshine to a nightmare snow covered path in low black cloud and rain – it was certainly a lesson in how things can change so quickly in the mountains. Photo Gallery Here |
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